Vionnet RTW Fall 2017 – WWD

Posted By on February 27, 2017

New Guineas multicolor birds-of-paradise, all 39species of which were first photographed in the wild in 2013, served as the inspiration for Goga Ashkenazis fall collection.For her first runway show at Milan Fashion Week, which was hosted at the prestigious Casa degli Atellani where Leonardo da Vinci livedwhile painting The Last Supper, the designer reworked all the signature houses codes, including draping and pliss, for a lineup that was both beautifully crafted and elegant.The birds flamboyant plumage echoed in the hints of bright colorsgreen, turquoise and fuchsiapaired with neutrals on the sumptuous evening gowns that combined pliss chiffon with floating silk charmeuse panels.

Illustrations of birds-of-paradise from the Encyclopedia Britannica were reproduced on a silk fabric with lamthatwas crafted into chic dresses, including a floor-length one-shoulder style cinched at the waist with a long ribbon.Slipdresses, including a printed tulle style, were layered over lightweight turtleneck sweaters, while a draped silk gown embellished with flocked birds was cut from a pattern conceived by Madeleine Vionnet herself.

Althoughthe collection was heavy on evening attire, daytime options included impeccable suiting, including a blazer with an incorporated capelet, as well as oversize shearling biker jackets infused with a cool, urban attitude.In keeping with hersummer runway show,Ashkenazi introduced a few denim pieces, including a maxiskirt, which actually featured the same artisanal construction of her gowns.The collection exuded luxury and high-end craftsmanship, demonstrating that relocating the show to Milan, where the Vionnet atelier and headquarters are based, mayhave been a winning strategic move for the brand.

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Vionnet RTW Fall 2017 - WWD

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