‘Woke’ fashion brands face backlash for not practising what they preach – The Guardian
Posted By admin on June 14, 2020
Fashions facades are crumbling. In the wake of the police killing of George Floyd, the progressive images of many brands, shops and influencers are being stripped away to reveal what are in some cases toxic internal practices.
Under the pressure of a debate over racism sparked by the killing of Floyd in Minneapolis, a harsh spotlight has been thrown upon organisations and individuals in the fashion sector whose outwardly woke statements in support of anti-racism jars with their internal behavior.
Last week, the protests over racism spread as several brands and designers werecriticisedfor being tone deaf to the change of mood, or worse. Even the US Vogue editor-in-chief, Anna Wintour, apologised for her magazines historical publication of stories and images that may have been hurtful to or intolerant of black people. Leandra Medine Cohen, the founder of the fashion blog Man Repeller, said she would step back after criticism of her companys response to systemic racism.
This disconnect between outward brand identity and racist undercurrents has surfaced in recent years, with fashion labels like Dolce & Gabbana,Comme des Garons,GucciandBurberrycalled out for producing racially insensitive and culturally inappropriate items of clothing.
But now an outpouring of statements from minority workers have often exposed systematic racism beneath veneers of corporate civility.
Days after the LA-based sustainable brand Reformationdonatedto Black Lives Matter, Reclaim the Block, Black Visions Collective, the NAACP and the ACLU, they too were criticised for their internal practices by ablackformer employee,Elle Santiago.
Being overlooked and undervaluedas a woman of color who worked and managed their flagship store for three years was the hardest, Santiago wrote in an Instagram post picked upby industry watchdogDiet Prada. I cried many times knowing [that] the color of my skin would get me nowhere in the company.
Santiago said she was denied work promotions in favor of white colleagues, as well as being ignored by the company founder,Yael Aflalo, because of her race. Ive failed, Aflalo posted as anapologyat the weekend and announced a diversity and inclusion board, a personal donation of $500,000 and an independent investigation into the companys workplace culture. She stepped down from running the company on Friday.
Its a similar story at Urban Outfitters, according to a former employee who spoke to the Guardian.
As one of very few PoC [people of color] I quickly noticed the toxic environment Id joined, says the former employee, who wishes to remain anonymous. Within my first month my manager made a flippant racist comment in regards to an Uber Id called; the drivers name was Muhammad. Her comment was, Youwouldget a Muhammad in what I can only take as a comment made because of my heritage.
Theres no PoC in the executive team and very little representation of PoC in head office, on the website, marketing campaigns and within the retail management teams.
The company has a history of producing offensive items of clothing, including a seemingly blood-spattered T-shirt seen as a reference to the 1970 Kent State shootings;a T-shirt in a color named Obama/Black; another featuring a six-pointed badge, which seemed to allude to the Star of David badge that Jewish people were forced to wear during the Holocaust; and a racially insensitive Navajo line which used the Navajo nation name illegally.
The Guardian contacted Urban Outfitters for comment and they shared an internal email that said: We support and stand with the black community and we recognise that we all must do more than weve done to date.
The company added it would commit to attracting a more diverse internal and external workforce.
Fashion industry observers say the reckoning is long overdue.
Many complain that non-white voices have been sublimated by white executives, and it is important now that these emerging testimonies are listened to and bring change. It is seen as especially important, because theres been a theme of some fashion-centric companies benefitting from either diversity on the shop floor, or on their webpages or in their advertising campaigns, deliberately adding a cultural edge to their aesthetic.
For example, the Urban Outfitterswebsite sells T-shirts featuring black groups such as Wu-Tang Clan and TLC, musicians such as Aaliyah and Jimi Hendrix, and ones featuring the logo from Death Row records, which was co-founded by Dr Dre. [They are] profiting from black culture and have done for decades, said the ex-employee. The least they can do is show genuine alliance and support the black community.
The race issues of companies such as Urban Outfitters and Reformation also shows a deep misunderstanding of the consumers they should be serving, fashion watchers say.
This generation feels comfortable not having only one way to be themselves, says Kati Chitrakorn, Vogue Businesss retail and marketing editor. Their search for authenticity creates a greater freedom of expression, and a greater openness to understanding different kinds of people. But italso means they scrutinize brands more carefully.
Frustration with the perceived corporate hijack of minority identity can be seen in the recentdissident Pride marches, which have championed queer liberation not rainbow capitalism, in a critique of the official marches, which have become an advertising showcase for corporations who sponsor floats rather than an echo of the radical message of the original protesters of Stonewall.
Historically, shoppers have used fashion as a social identifier, but many consumers these days want more. Successful brands realize they are part of society and have a role to play, and will cater to teens craving for authenticity says Chitrakorn.Its alsowhy, for a generation of buzzy brands, making consumers feel kinship takesprecedence over selling product.
Thats why the current chorus of public apologies might not cut it unless they come with concrete action.
Changing yourself before talking about your changes will be vital, says RJ dHond from data consulting company Kantar, and only if it is a full company intent, not a marketing or communication department idea.
In this landscape, people will spot fakes. If a brand suddenly activates content around a cause it does not have a history of supporting, it will appear superficial and transactional, says Conor Begley, co-creator of influencer analysts Tribe Dynamics.
He cites Rihannas Fenty as a brand thathas effectively taken on social issues, supported by Rihannas own advocacy on social justice issues and the brands hiring of diverse influencers and models from the off.
As a result, the brands recent contributions to racial justice conversations on social media do not appear hollow or performative, but rather an authentic expression of the values Fenty has always stood for, Begley says.
So what should fashion do as the great unmasking roars on?
Its time to clean house and get things in order, says Karen Binns, fashion director of Fashion Roundtable. The consumer will be asking for receipts, so get ready.
See original here:
'Woke' fashion brands face backlash for not practising what they preach - The Guardian
- Among Marginalized Voices at Upcoming Theater Festival: Conservatives - Heritage.org - January 18th, 2021
- The BroadsheetDAILY ~ 1/14/21 ~ State Extends, Expands Eviction and Foreclosure Bans Credited with Saving Thousands of Lives - ebroadsheet.com - January 18th, 2021
- Zac Posen, Andy Cohen Explore Jewish Ancestry on 'Finding Your Roots' - Jewish Journal - January 14th, 2021
- Before Sheldon Adelsons death, his relationships soured with both Netanyahu and Trump - Forward - January 14th, 2021
- Celebrate MLK Day online and in person at the reopening of Maltz Museum: Valley Views - cleveland.com - January 14th, 2021
- Art Industry News: Financiers Are Investing Piles of Cash Into Immersive Art Centers Following Mass Layoffs in the Sector + Other Stories - artnet... - January 14th, 2021
- Georgias Senate runoffs: All the Jewish drama from a charged campaign - The Times of Israel - January 6th, 2021
- Its being treated like a war: Israels rapid Covid-19 vaccination drive - The Irish Times - January 4th, 2021
- Oakland County community calendar Jan. 3 and beyond - The Oakland Press - January 4th, 2021
- This customized van is helping UK Holocaust survivors record their stories during the pandemic - JTA News - Jewish Telegraphic Agency - January 4th, 2021
- Anonymous benefactor assures success of Cliftonville Save Our Shul campaign - The Isle of Thanet News - January 4th, 2021
- Museum Of Jewish Heritage " A Living Memorial To The Holocaust Pivoting To Provide Production Space In 2021 - Broadway World - December 22nd, 2020
- What the Holidays Mean to Me: Community partners share the importance of this season - LouisvilleKy.gov - December 22nd, 2020
- Looking back at 2020, a year like no other in the museums and heritage sector - Museums + Heritage Advisor - December 22nd, 2020
- Pastors: Kelly Loeffler's Smear Of Rev. Raphael Warnock Is Broad Assault On The Black Church - HuffPost - December 22nd, 2020
- Islam must adopt the Moroccan model - The Spectator US - December 18th, 2020
- Magic Shows and Inner Beauty - The New York Times - December 18th, 2020
- Security Industry Mourns the Loss of Bob Harris - Security Sales & Integration - December 18th, 2020
- My Word: Forgotten refugees and the proud Mizrahi heritage - The Jerusalem Post - December 5th, 2020
- Feed the Body and Mind During Hanukkah - Santa Barbara Independent - December 5th, 2020
- The UAE Is Rejecting Doublethink on Israel Will It Last? - National Review - December 5th, 2020
- Demonstrating Compassion in our Responses and Actions - Atlanta Jewish Times - November 21st, 2020
- This non-Jewish leader is working to clean up Polands Jewish cemeteries - The Jerusalem Post - November 21st, 2020
- What to do this Weekend: Nov 18-22 - Nob Hill Gazette - November 21st, 2020
- The BroadsheetDAILY ~ 11/19/20 ~ Homeless for the Holidays Judge Will Rule Next Monday on Whether to Allow FiDi Shelter Plans - ebroadsheet.com - November 21st, 2020
- Georgia Writers Hall Of Fame Celebrates Its 20th Anniversary In Honor Of The State's Literary Legends - WABE 90.1 FM - November 21st, 2020
- Ahead of November election, growing numbers of Jews consider leaving US - The Times of Israel - October 4th, 2020
- 'The regime has no real choice but to let the victors rule' - Cleveland Jewish News - October 4th, 2020
- Celebrating Bess Myerson, The One and Only Jewish Miss America - The Jerusalem Post - September 29th, 2020
- Hispanic Heritage Month: Exploring The Connection Between Latin Americans And Judaism - CBS New York - September 25th, 2020
- Survey: 13% of NJ's young adults think Jews caused the Holocaust - New Jersey 101.5 FM Radio - September 23rd, 2020
- Coronavirus crisis is testing the resilience of Europe's small Jewish communities - JTA News - Jewish Telegraphic Agency - September 23rd, 2020
- Coronavirus is testing the resilience of Europes small Jewish communities - The Jerusalem Post - September 23rd, 2020
- When RBG came to see Fiddler on the Roof in Yiddish - Forward - September 23rd, 2020
- Some Cuyahoga County residents would have to travel 90 minutes to use the countys only ballot drop box: The - cleveland.com - September 23rd, 2020
- Limited by COVID-19, Jewish community finds ways to keep traditions alive, connections strong - Milwaukee Journal Sentinel - September 23rd, 2020
- Rosh Hashana in the Pandemic: Rabbis, Cantors and Video Crews - The New York Times - September 19th, 2020
- Maltz Museum of Jewish Heritage reopens to the public today - WJW FOX 8 News Cleveland - August 26th, 2020
- Words, like sticks and stones, can hurt us - The Jewish Star - August 26th, 2020
- Here's a list of fall festivals that are canceled or will be virtual due to COVID-19 - Corpus Christi Caller-Times - August 26th, 2020
- Love and Courage, or On Being a Literary Editor in Today's Istanbul: A Conversation with Mustafa evikdoan and Mehmet Erte - lareviewofbooks - August 26th, 2020
- 15 women from York County's past who influenced, inspired and created change - York Daily Record - August 26th, 2020
- Prerecorded services, backyard worship, a drive-in: High Holidays during a pandemic - The Jewish News of Northern California - August 22nd, 2020
- This weekend, the Netanyahu family is set to decide if Israel is going to election - Haaretz - August 22nd, 2020
- When You're Outnumbered: Lessons from Two British Masters of Irregular Warfare - War on the Rocks - August 22nd, 2020
- Maltz Museum of Jewish Heritage will reopen to the public this month - Crain's Cleveland Business - August 12th, 2020
- Kazakhstan adds Chabad leader's grave to its list of national heritage sites - Jewish News - August 12th, 2020
- Learn to spot a fake photo and see gas giants in the solar system: Valley Views - cleveland.com - August 12th, 2020
- Dropping the hyphen: Why this publication is changing its spelling of antisemitism - The Jewish News of Northern California - August 12th, 2020
- Online Learning, High Impact Programming, Caring Communities, and the Family are Keys to Jewish Education Success and Living a Values-Oriented Life -... - August 12th, 2020
- Young couples find love in Israel on the Masa program - The Jerusalem Post - August 12th, 2020
- This Month in Milwaukee: 16 Things to Do in August 2020 - Shepherd Express - August 12th, 2020
- The pandemic put Phoenixs Jewish mayor in the spotlight. Shes walking a tightrope. - Forward - August 4th, 2020
- A town celebrated for its heritage is urged to look at the history it's ignored - CBC.ca - August 4th, 2020
- Twitter Finally Bans the Nazi. No, Not That One. No, the Other One. - Gizmodo - August 4th, 2020
- Things To Do This Week - The New York Times - August 2nd, 2020
- Twitter Finally Bans the Nazi. No, Not That One. No, the Other One. - Gizmodo Australia - August 2nd, 2020
- The Hagia Sophia as a palimpsest: Memories of the monument in five acts - Scroll.in - August 2nd, 2020
- 'Chaos' at Victoria's Epping Gardens: how privatised aged care has failed during the coronavirus pandemic - The Guardian - August 2nd, 2020
- The day after: Israel may be the exception to a COVID-19 baby bust - Haaretz.com - August 2nd, 2020
- The Path to the Great Jewish Twitter Walkout - The Times of Israel - July 27th, 2020
- Mel Gibson was hospitalised after being diagnosed with coronavirus in April - NME.com - July 27th, 2020
- Phil Jones | Remember the 43 Group LRB 23 July 2020 - London Review of Books - July 27th, 2020
- Mel Gibson was in hospital with coronavirus in April - The Independent - July 27th, 2020
- Things to Do: Upcoming Food and Drink Events in Houston This Week - Houston Press - July 27th, 2020
- Stephen Miller's Grandmother Died of COVID-19. Her Son Blames the Trump Administration. - Mother Jones - July 27th, 2020
- The conflicted uncertainty of Pandemic Soccer - Pittsburgh Soccer Now - July 27th, 2020
- COVID-19 hits one in six Iowa nursing homes but inspectors cite few violations - Le Mars Daily Sentinel - July 27th, 2020
- Av: Disaster and Consolation - The Jewish Voice - July 17th, 2020
- The Yiddish song that kicked off the Swing Era is due for a comeback - The Jerusalem Post - July 17th, 2020
- Beautiful Hagia Sophia: Between the Sacred and the Profane; Turkey Is Condemned, While Israel Gets a Pass - CounterPunch - July 17th, 2020
- The case for dining out in the middle of a pandemic - Maclean's - July 17th, 2020
- IAC co-founder: Jewish, Israel education should be affordable to everyone - The Jerusalem Post - July 13th, 2020
- Why Winona Ryder has been haunted by horrors of Holocaust since her childhood - Mirror Online - July 13th, 2020
- What's your story? - Vashon-Maury Island Beachcomber - July 13th, 2020
- Government may face legal action over building of Westminster Shoah memorial - Jewish News - July 13th, 2020
- Emmys spotlight: Why 'Unorthodox' star Shira Haas believes in the power of change - Screen International - July 4th, 2020
- Helen Epstein: One real skill and one fake one helped my mother survive the Holocaust - Radio Prague - July 4th, 2020
- Coronavirus: Here is what Israels schools could look like in Sept. 2020 - The Jerusalem Post - July 3rd, 2020
- Surprise! Jordanian Ammunition Found Near the Western Wall - Israel Today - July 3rd, 2020
Comments