Could a former bar be one of Spain’s lost medieval synagogues? – The Guardian

Posted By on March 3, 2021

The rambling, 14th-century building that sits off a narrow alley in the historic heart of Utrera, its patio walls furred with moss and its inner ones painted pugnacious shades of purple and orange, has led a long and varied existence.

Over the centuries, it has served the Andalucan city as a hospital, a home for abandoned children, a restaurant and, in its final incarnation, a bar.

Before all that, however, it may have been the synagogue where Utreras once-large Jewish community worshipped more than 500 years ago.

After months of research and surveying, a team of experts brought in by the city council has begun its search for what could be one of the largest of Spains very few surviving medieval synagogues.

References to the lost temple go back to the early 17th century. In his 1604 history of Utrera, Rodrigo Caro, a local priest, historian and poet, described an area of the city centre as it had been in earlier centuries, writing: In that place, there were only foreign and Jewish people who had their synagogue where the Hospital de la Misericordia now stands.

The hospital was founded in 1492 the same year in which Spains Jews were expelled by King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella after a century of persecution.

Thats the first mention we have, said Miguel ngel de Dios, one of the archaeologists working on the project.

Luckily, the building has survived over the years basically because its always been in use even as a bar. Its quite weird to walk into the building and see it painted like a pub. Its very colourful and makes quite an impression. But thats exactly why its survived.

Should a medieval synagogue be found hidden beneath the gaudy paint and multiple modifications, it would be one of the precious few medieval ones to have endured, along with the likes of El Trnsito and Santa Mara la Blanca in Toledo, the Crdoba synagogue, Corpus Christi in Segovia and the Sinagoga del Agua in beda. As some of the names suggest, synagogues were often turned into Roman Catholic churches.

The property, which had stood abandoned for two decades before it was bought by Utrera city council in 2018, has been divided up and repurposed countless times over its lengthy and eclectic life.

Weve noted three different phases in the building and have identified the walls and floors were going to examine to try to confirm the existence of the synagogue, said De Dios.

Weve surveyed the site and found walls that fit, walls that dont, and some odd things such as different heights between whats inside and whats outside.

De Dios, who is working with fellow archaeologist Roco Lpez Serena and the architect Antonio Jaramillo, is now searching for evidence to corroborate Caros history.

There are a whole lot of things that are always in a synagogue, just like there are things you always find in a church or a mosque, he said.

There should be a mikveh, or ritual bath, somewhere outside the prayer room and some kind of structure for the womens gallery.

And of course, he added, finding a menorah would be like turning up an ID card.

But De Dios is realistic and professionally dubious over some of the claims made about the as yet undiscovered synagogue.

If it does turn out to be a synagogue, well have to see what kind of state its in and whether the walls are the original ones of the prayer room, or if theyre later remodellings that could even have been built around or on top of the original walls, he said.

Id be very cautious about any talk of this being the second biggest surviving synagogue in Spain, but it could possibly be one of the biggest.

Utreras mayor, Jos Mara Villalobos, said the discovery of the synagogue could bring the city cultural, civic and economic benefits.

I think it would help us to understand ourselves a bit better by understanding Utreras past as a place where different people and different cultures lived alongside each other, he said. Having such a special building would also be an important boost for cultural and heritage tourism, especially as were only 20 minutes from Seville.

The search for the synagogue comes amid what De Dios sees as a wider attempt to connect Spain with its Jewish past, and look into the impact it had on our historical and archaeological heritage, on our culture, our customs and even on our food.

For the past 26 years, a group of towns and cities across Spain the Red de Juderas de Espaa (Network of Spains Jewish Quarters) has been seeking to preserve and promote the historical, cultural, and architectural legacy of the countrys long-exiled Jews.

In 2015, Spains parliament passed a law offering citizenship to the descendants of the Jews expelled in 1492 in an attempt to atone for what the then government termed a historic mistake. More than 130,000 people applied for citizenship under the scheme before it ended in 2019.

Its odd but its taken a long time for people to start looking at the history of Jewish people in Spain, said De Dios.

Its kind of been left to one side and more study and attention has been given to the Islamic culture that also left its mark here in Andaluca.

Isaac Benzaqun, the president of Spains Federation of Jewish communities, said the discovery of the synagogue if confirmed would yield another trace of the long and intense co-existence that came to an end in 1492.

Such discoveries, he added, reveal the social and cultural richness of Spains past while also showing the Jewish community the deep roots of our culture in this country.

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Could a former bar be one of Spain's lost medieval synagogues? - The Guardian

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