WATCH: Forget Atlanta – this is the Georgia on my mind

Posted By on February 6, 2015

At the crossroads of Europe and Asia, the Republic of Georgia has been home to one of the oldest Jewish Diasporas in the world. Jews have lived in the country over 2600 years, according to sources, beginning with the Babylonian exile. The earliest archeological evidence is from the Third Century, tombstones bearing inscriptions in Hebrew and Aramaic, near Mtskheta, the ancient capital. Since then, waves of refugees arrived in the sixth Century escaping Byzantine persecution, after the Spanish Inquisition of 1492, and during the early 19th century, when the first Ashkenazim arrived, forced out of Russia.

For much of the two millennia, Georgian Jews have lived without the anti-Semitism that characterized Europe and Russia. The Church in Georgia did not incite against the Jews, as it did in other countries, said Gurem Batiashivili, a playwright and prominent Jewish figure in Georgia. Also, they tended to blend in with the rural life, loved and spoke Georgian language and though they kept their own traditions, did not intermarry, they were visibly assimilated in the country.

Some writers even claim Jewish origin to the Georgian royal lineage. King Davids harp and sling appear on the royal seal of the beloved House of Bagrationi that ruled from the early Middle Ages. Indeed, the most popular rulers of the dynasty, King David the Builder and King Tamar (a woman) had Biblical names. Jewish figures such as Abraham, Moses, and David are revered in Georgia.

None of that prevented the mass emigration of Georgian Jews when they had the opportunity to leave. Among the first refuseniks Jews started leaving Georgia in the 1970s with a larger wave departing in the early 1990s with the fall of Communism. From a high point of 100,000 Jews, only about 3000 remain, largely Sephardic, observant and almost all living in the capital, Tiblisi.

Tbilisi is a city of contrasts. Wide boulevards, new bridges and cutting-edge architecture exist alongside the cobblestone lanes of the old city, and the ancient fortress overlooking the capital. There are two active synagogues, Ashkenazi and the much larger Sephardic shul. Its tribute to Georgian Jewry, with high marble columns and elaborate frescos. A minyan is held daily, and on Shabbat the congregation will bring out 100 people.

There is also a JCC, which is the focal point of a younger generation, who choose to remain in Georgia. Alexandra, quote Much of the support for the renewal activities, along with caring for the elderly, is from the JDC.

On one of Tbilisis hilltops is a Jewish cemetery, a remarkable visual testimony to the modern Georgian community. Many of the headstones bear life-size images of the deceased, some depicting their occupation or passions (music, food, cars).

At the Georgia National Museum, an outstanding design and historical collection, there was a recent exhibition about the cultural heritage of Georgian Jews. The curator, Lela Tsitsuashvili, gave us a glimpse from the archives. It is a fascinating collection of ethnography costumes, religious artifacts, and paintings capturing a century of Georgian Jewish life

A few hours to the west is Kutaisi, one of the most ancient cities in the world and today, the second largest in Georgia. According to legend, it is here that Jason sailed in the Argonaut to get the Golden Fleece. Perched above the city is the Gelati Monastery, which was both a spiritual center and scientific academy.

In Kutaisi, a small community of about 200 Jews gathers at a compound, site of a small and newly renovated large synagogue. Here, a minyan is held daily, often bolstered by visitors from Israel and Georgian Jews who have emigrated.

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WATCH: Forget Atlanta - this is the Georgia on my mind

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